Patio Planner – Every Material for Building a Patio

One form, the whole job. Measure the patio, choose your slab, and we'll work out the sub-base, bedding mortar, slabs, jointing and edging — plus the total cost.

What will use the patio?

100mm of compacted MOT Type 1 over a membrane, with a 40mm full mortar bed. That's the standard build-up for a garden patio.

How to measure your area
length × widthRectangleL-shape: add A + BABCirclediameterπ × radius²

Measure rectangles length by width. Split an L-shape into two rectangles, or measure a circle straight across its widest point.

Measure your patio

Section 1
5m3m

15

Odd-shaped garden? Split it into rectangles, triangles and circles — we add them up for you.

You need

44slabs (15 m²)

Full build-up: 100mm sub-base + 40mm mortar bed + slabs

MOT Type 1
3.15 t (4 bags)
Sharp sand
0.8 t (1 bags)
Cement
6 × 25kg bags
Jointing compound
3 × 20kg tubs
Spoil to remove
2.7 m³
Perimeter
16 m
How we worked this out
15 m² patio area plus 5% slab waste ÷ 0.36 m² per slab = 44 slabs.
Patio layers, from the ground up
Slabs + joints20–40mmFull mortar bed40mmMOT Type 1100mm patioMembrane1 layerCompacted soilfirm subsoil

Patio build-up at a glance

LayerFoot trafficVehicle crossingMaterial
Excavation200mm250mmSpoil to a skip
Membrane1 layer1 layerWoven weed membrane
Sub-base100mm150mmMOT Type 1 @ 2.1 t/m³
Bedding40mm50mmSharp sand + cement, 5:1
Slabs20–40mm40mm+Riven, porcelain or concrete
Joints10mm10mmBrush-in compound

How this planner works

A patio is four layers, and each one is worked out from the same area figure. We take the total area from your measurements, then:

  • Slabs: area plus 5% waste, divided by the area of one slab, rounded up.
  • Sub-base: area × depth × 2.1 tonnes per m³ of MOT Type 1, then divided into 850kg bulk bags.
  • Bedding: area × 40mm gives the mortar volume, split 5:1 by volume into sharp sand and cement, with sand converted at 1.6 tonnes per m³.
  • Jointing: area divided by the coverage of a 20kg tub, which is about 6m² at a 10mm joint on 600mm slabs.
  • Edging and membrane: from the perimeter and the area respectively.

We also show the spoil volume, because the dug-out material has to go somewhere and a skip is usually the biggest single cost people forget.

Worked example: a 4m × 3m patio

A 4m × 3m patio is 12m². With 600 × 600mm slabs (0.36m² each) and 5% waste you need 35 slabs.

The sub-base at 100mm is 12 × 0.1 × 2.1 = 2.52 tonnes, which is three 850kg bulk bags. The 40mm mortar bed is 0.48m³: about 0.4m³ of sharp sand (0.64 tonnes, one bulk bag) and 0.08m³ of cement, which is around five 25kg bags. Jointing takes two 20kg tubs, and you'll want two rolls of membrane.

Materials come to roughly £700–£900 depending on the slab, plus a skip at around £250 for the 3m³ of spoil and about £60 a day for a plate compactor. Add a couple of days' labour if you're not doing it yourself.

Tips from the trade counter

  • The base is the job. Compact the Type 1 in two 50mm layers with a plate compactor, not one 100mm layer. A properly whacked base is why some patios last thirty years and others rock after one winter.
  • Set a fall before you start. 1 in 80 away from the house. String lines and a spirit level with a packer taped to one end make this easy.
  • Stay 150mm below the DPC. Paving above the damp-proof course bridges it and can cause damp inside the house.
  • Prime the back of porcelain slabs. Slurry primer is essential for porcelain — without it, slabs release from the mortar within a year.
  • Order the slabs first. Check the pack for shade variation and lay from several packs at once so the colour blends naturally.
  • Don't joint in the wet or in frost. Most brush-in compounds need dry, mild conditions and will stain or fail otherwise.

UK rules for patios

A patio laid at ground level in a rear garden is normally permitted development and needs no planning permission. A raised patio or platform more than 300mm above ground level often does, and so does paving in some conservation areas, on listed buildings, or where a planning condition removes permitted development rights.

If the patio increases the amount of hard surface draining towards a public sewer or the highway, plan for run-off to soak into a border or lawn. And keep the finished level at least 150mm below the damp-proof course. Always confirm with your local council before starting — rules differ across England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland.

Frequently asked questions

What materials do I need to lay a patio?

Weed membrane, MOT Type 1 sub-base, sharp sand and cement for the bedding mortar, the slabs themselves, jointing compound, and edging or haunching for any open sides.

How deep should I dig for a patio?

Around 200mm for a foot-traffic patio: 100mm of compacted sub-base, 40mm of bedding mortar and the slab thickness, finishing at least 150mm below the damp-proof course.

How much sub-base do I need for a patio?

100mm of compacted MOT Type 1 for foot traffic, or 150mm if a vehicle will ever cross it. MOT Type 1 weighs about 2.1 tonnes per m³, so 12m² at 100mm is 2.5 tonnes.

Should slabs be laid on a full mortar bed or on dabs?

Always a full bed. Spot-bedding on five blobs leaves voids that crack slabs, hold water and cause frost damage. A 40mm full bed at about 5:1 sharp sand to cement is the standard.

What fall should a patio have?

About 1 in 80 — roughly 12mm per metre — running away from the house so rainwater drains off rather than sitting against the wall.

How much jointing compound do I need?

A 20kg tub of brush-in compound typically covers 5–8m² with 10mm joints on 600 × 600mm slabs. Narrower joints or larger slabs go further.

Do I need planning permission for a patio?

Usually not for a patio at ground level in a rear garden. Raised decking or a raised patio over 300mm high, and paving in some conservation areas or listed properties, can need permission — check with your local council.

How long does a patio take to lay?

For a competent DIYer, a 12m² patio is typically a full weekend for digging out and the sub-base, and a second weekend for laying and jointing. Don't rush the base — it's 80% of the job.

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