How to Build a Stud Wall

What a stud wall is made of

• Sole plate: a length of timber fixed to the floor.
• Head plate: a matching length fixed to the ceiling joists.
• Studs: vertical timbers between the two plates, usually at 400mm centres (600mm is sometimes used, but 400mm gives a stiffer wall and suits 1,200mm-wide plasterboard).
• Noggins: short horizontal timbers between the studs, usually one row at mid-height, to stiffen the wall and give fixing points.
• Plasterboard: usually 12.5mm, 2,400 × 1,200mm sheets, on one or both sides.

The most common timber is CLS (planed, rounded-edge studwork timber), in 38 × 63mm or 38 × 89mm. Use the deeper size for taller walls, doorways, or where you want thicker insulation.

How much will you need?

For a wall 3.6m long and 2.4m high with studs at 400mm centres:

• Studs: 10 (3.6 ÷ 0.4 = 9, plus one for the end)
• Plates: 7.2m (floor and ceiling)
• Noggins: about 3.6m for one row
• Plasterboard: 3.6 × 2.4 × 2 sides = 17.28m², which is 6 sheets, or 7 with 10% extra
• Screws: about 30 per board

Add two extra studs and a head for each doorway. The Stud Wall Calculator works out timber lengths, plasterboard, screws and insulation for your wall.

Step-by-step

• Check for pipes and cables in the floor, ceiling and walls with a detector before fixing anything.
• Mark the line on the floor, then transfer it to the ceiling with a plumb bob or laser level.
• Fix the head plate to the ceiling joists. If the joists run parallel to your wall, fit noggins between them to fix into.
• Fix the sole plate to the floor – screws into timber floors, or plugs and screws into concrete. Leave a gap for any doorway.
• Fix the end studs to the existing walls.
• Mark and fit the studs at 400mm centres. Cut each one to fit snugly between the plates, and fix by skew-nailing or screwing.
• Frame the doorway with a stud each side and a head timber at door height (allow for the door lining).
• Fit noggins between the studs.
• Run any cables before boarding, and get electrical work done by a qualified electrician.
• Insulate. Acoustic mineral wool between the studs makes a big difference to noise between rooms.
• Board the wall. Fix plasterboard with drywall screws about every 150–300mm, staggering the joints on each side.
• Tape and finish. Tape and fill the joints, or have the wall skimmed, then mist-coat and paint.

Do I need Building Regulations approval?

A simple non-loadbearing stud wall in an existing home often doesn't need approval. It can, though, if it affects fire escape routes (for example, creating a room you can only get out of through another room, or in a loft conversion), affects ventilation (such as bathrooms or rooms without windows), or forms part of a bigger project. If in doubt, ask your local council's building control team before you start.